Look, the hardware should be replaced every time on front or back wheels. The cradle where the clip goes in should be wire wheeled or sanded and then new clips should be installed. The slides should be greased and the caliper piston should be smooth with hardly any resistance going back into the caliper. How to Install the Anti Rattle Clip on Brake Pads Step 1. Unbolt the brake caliper from its mounting point using a socket wrench. Turn the caliper over and remove the. Place the anti-rattle clip between the new brake pads. Align the holes on the brake pads' metal backing plates. The anti-rattle clip is just that - an anti-rattle clip. It is not an integral or supporting part of the brake system - the pads are held in place with or without them - albeit somewhat nosier.
- How To Install Disc Brake Anti Rattle Clips Brakes Rotors
- How To Install Anti Rattle Clips On Brake Pads
- How To Install Disc Brake Anti Rattle Clips
Still have questions? Contact our technical support: tech@powerstop.com
The installation guide is for reference only. Please refer to the vehicle’s service manual or professional installer for complete instructions.
How To Install a PowerStop Brake Kit
Step 1: Tools
Have the following parts and specialty tools available before you start a pad and rotor installation:
- brake fluid (as specified in the owner’s manual)
- brake component lube
- a caliper piston compressor or C-clamp
- a jack and jack stands rated for the vehicles weight
- wheel chocks
We also recommend using safety glasses and gloves during the installation.
Step 2: Check Brake Fluid
Have the vehicle in the park position and make sure it is on a hard, level surface. Then, check the brake fluid level at the reservoir. The brake fluid reservoir should be about half full. Monitor the fluid level while compressing the caliper piston in step 9.
Step 3: Lift Vehicle
Before raising the vehicle, chock all wheels remaining on the ground, set the parking brake if the rear wheels will remain on the ground and loosen the lug nuts on the wheels just enough to break them free. Lift the vehicle and support it with jack stands using the proper jacking points specified by the manufacture. Ww greener shotguns serial numbers.
Caution: Alwaysuse jack stands. Never attempt to work on an elevated vehicle held in placeonly by a hydraulic jack.
Step 4: Remove The Wheel
Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. It is best to work on one wheel at a time, leaving the other side intact as a point of reference. As a safety precaution, place the wheel/tire assembly under the vehicle at the nearest frame rail, suspension component or crossmember. In the event of a faulty jack stand, the wheel/tire will stop the vehicle from falling onto the ground.
Step 5: Inspect Brakes
After removing the wheel, inspect the brake components for any signs of leaks or damage.
Step 6: Remove Caliper
Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts that hold the caliper onto the bracket. Then, remove the caliper and support it using a brake caliper hanger or a regular wire coat hanger.
Caution: Always support the caliper. Never allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose. This can cause damage to the brake hose.
Step 7: Remove Pads & Caliper Bracket
Then, remove the two caliper bracket bolts along with the caliper bracket.
Step 8: Remove the Rotor
The rotor can now be removed. Before removing the rotor check for retaining screws. Some vehicles use retaining screws to hold the rotor onto the hub. These will need to be removed. Sometimes rust will make the rotor bind to the hub and a mallet will be needed to loosen it. Tap both the front and back side alternating left and right, top and bottom of the rotor.
Step 9: Compress the Piston
The next step is to compress the piston back inside the caliper. The piston has extended as the pad material wears. With new thicker pads, you must return the piston back inside the caliper body to give the thicker pads room for installation. Using a piston compressor or a large C-clamp, place a used brake pad over the face of the piston to protect the surface from marring, and begin compressing the piston. As you turn the handle on the clamp, it will increase pressure on the piston, until it becomes flush with the surrounding metal. Push the piston in slowly to prevent unsafe back pressure and damage to the ABS modulator, brake valving or master cylinder. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir level while compressing the caliper pistons to make sure it does not overflow. Then, loosen and remove the piston compressor or C-clamp used. It may be necessary to drain some fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.
NOTE: Many rear brakepistons cannot be retracted with a C-clamp as they screw in and out. This typeof brake piston will have two recessed notches and a caliper piston adjuster isused to compress the piston.
Step 10: Clean the Rotor Hub
Clean any rust off the face of the hub mating surface with a wire brush and a hub cleaning kit. Rust or debris on the hub can cause rotor runout and lead to wheel vibration. Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the face of the hub. This will make it easier to remove the rotor next time.
For more information on preparing the rotor hub for a brake kit install, check out this video:
Step 11: Clean the Rotor
Before installing the rotor, clean it with mild soap and water. Then, wipe it clean with a lint-free cloth. Now the new rotor can be installed.
Checking For Lateral Runout
When installing rotors, we recommend checking the lateral runout. This will tell you if any variation exists between the rotor and the hub to which it is mounted. Depending on the application, the maximum acceptable lateral runout can range from .003” to .005”. Always refer to the manufacture specifications for each application. If a variation exists, this is generally easy to correct by re-indexing the rotor one hole at a time. The goal is to reduce runout by finding the best position for the rotor. If the rotor is not properly indexed, it’s possible to have some vibration or pulsation issues and damage the rotors over time.
Keep this in mind if the rotor needs to be removed to perform any other services to the vehicle. Mark the position of the rotor relative to the hub before its removed to make sure it is re-installed in the same position.
Some vehicles use a retaining screw to hold the rotor into position on the hub. It is not possible to re-index this style of rotor.
Step 12: Install New Hardware
Remove the old hardware from the caliper bracket and use a wire brush to clean rust from the areas where the pads or hardware contact the bracket. This helps ensure the new hardware will sit correctly on the bracket. Then, inspect and replace all hardware as needed making sure to apply brake lube to the guide pins and pad contact points. Worn or damaged hardware can lead to noise or poor brake pad performance.
Step 13: Install Caliper Bracket & Brake Pads
Install the caliper bracket and torque the caliper bracket bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications. Then, install the new pads. Apply a small amount of brake lube on the back of the pads where they contact the caliper, as shown in the photo below:
Caution: Do not let any brake lube get onto the friction side of the pads.
Step 14: Install the caliper
Install the brake caliper, making sure to not twist the brake hose, and torque the caliper bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications.
Step 15: Bleed the brakes
Bleed the brakes to remove any air from the brake system. We recommend bleeding the brakes every time you replace the pads and rotors. Not all vehicles have the same bleeding procedure. You should always refer to the Factory Service Manual for the proper procedure.
NOTE: Afterbleeding the brakes, make sure the brake fluid reservoir is filled to the maxline. Do not overfill the reservoir.
To learn more about the different types of brake fluid, check out our video below:
Step 16: Install the Wheel & Lug Nuts
Install the wheel and lug nuts. Then, lower the vehicle back onto the ground to finish tightening the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s specified torque. Follow the proper tightening sequence based on the number of lug nuts used, found in the picture below:
Step 17: Break-in Procedures
Complete one of the two break-in procedures below based on the PowerStop rotors installed.
IMPORTANT: Thebreak-in procedure is critical to providing consistent braking, quiet stoppingand trouble-free performance.
Break inProcedure for Drilled/Slotted and Non-Coated rotors:
Complete 5moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid successionwithout letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you’reforced to stop, complete the stop and either shift the vehicle into park orgive room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waitingfor the traffic light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brakepedal will force the brake pad to contact the rotor and possibly create animprint on the rotor. This imprint may contribute to the creation of brakejudder.
Continue thebreak in by completing 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapidsuccession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell someresin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, continue to drive thevehicle for as long as possible without heating the brakes excessively andwithout coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed).This is the cooling stage.
Once this is completed and the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally. Never cool your brakes with water, as this can damage them.
Break inProcedure for Evolution Coated Rotors:
Afterinstallation, perform 30 decelerations from 30 mph to 5 mph. With 30 seconds inbetween each deceleration for cooling. You should expect to smell some resin asthe brakes get hot.
If you’re forced to stop, complete the stopand either shift the vehicle into park or give room in front so you can allowthe vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the traffic light. The rotorswill be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will force the brake pad tocontact the rotor and possibly create an imprint on the rotor. This imprint maycontribute to the creation of brake judder.
Once this iscompleted and the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you mayuse the brakes normally. Never cool your brakes with water, as this can damagethem.
For more How To’s & Tips, click here: https://www.powerstop.com/category/how-tos/
How To Install Disc Brake Anti Rattle Clips Brakes Rotors
Brake Pad Rattle
Brake Pad Rattle
I can hear a brake pad rattle noise from my cars brakes and want to know what this is?
Brake pad rattle or rattling brakes can be caused by a number of things and the first thing is to carefully check that you have the correct parts for your car. Many brake pads look similar in design and it is easy to get supplied the wrong parts. Using the wrong parts that are undersize can be dangerous as the brake rattle if excessive could mean the pads moving in the caliper and becoming even jammed and not operating properly. Brake pad rattle can also lead to the pads skewing sideways and locking in the caliper causing the backing plates to be bent and the friction material to be broken away and cause immense problems.
So if you hear any rattling noises or brake pad rattle check you have the right pads in your car.
When changing brake pads you need to take care that you re use or replace the essential hardware that was on the original pads when the car was built. Hardware on original pads often includes stainless steel silver shims on the reverse of the pads and these CAN be re used IF THE NEW SET OF PADS YOU HAVE do not have any shims. Some manufacturers use a black rubberised shim instead of these stainless parts. DO NOT ever use BOTH shims as this will cause an over thickness situation and will cause pad drag and overheat. You only need the one shim set on brake pads.
However there are often anti rattle springs on the left and right sides of the pads similar to the picture above and if your original pad set had such shims they must be removed and carefully cleaned and re used. Do not bend the shims and make sure before replacing them you notice which way they were installed for the new install. Make sure whilst these end clips or anti rattle springs are off that you thoroughly clean the caliper sliders into which these parts will fit. Dirt or rust on those slide ways will prevent the shims from seating properly and could cause the pads to stick in the caliper. This will cause brake noise or brake squeal and cause the pads to overheat the brake rotor. Pads must slide freely on these pieces of hardware without jamming. Apply a very small coating of high temperature grease to the pad backing plate ears where the anti rattle clips locate to help the pads slide freely but DO NOT ever get greases anywhere near the friction surfaces of you brakes pads and again , apply the lube very sparingly.
Brake pad rattle can also lead to spongy brakes as the pads bounce around and knock the caliper pistons back, thereby requiring more pedal travel to snug the pads back up close to the disc.
How To Install Anti Rattle Clips On Brake Pads
Brake pad rattle can also be caused by lack or the appropriate claw clip on the pad reverse. These claw clips are really only for pad install on the production line but do have the affect of preventing pad rattle.
Brake rattle can also be caused by a loose disc which would mean a loose wheel and of course this is a serious issue which needs fixing immediately.
How To Install Disc Brake Anti Rattle Clips
Basically if you hear any rattling noise from your brakes take the car quickly to a professional mechanic for advice.